Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Oggi . . . Il Palio

Today's the day! After 3 days of complete madness (among locals and tourists alike), today is the day of the Palio! Here's how our day will go:
8 AM - the Mass for the Jockeys - happened in Il Campo - Mark and Stephen had the chance to catch it while walking to school this morning - right there, in front of the Palazzo Pubblico, the Archbishop of Siena (who oversees the Mass at the Duomo) did a blessing over the jockeys and the Capitani.
9 AM - 1:30 PM class
Immediately after class, the kids either follow with their teacher or me to watch one of the services where they have il Benedictione del Cavallo (the blessing of the horse). Then, we will all go to hang out by the Duomo and watch the Passegiata Storica, a long parade where all the contrade present their standards and salute the Duomo with flags. Also, part of the procession includes a section where the virtues of Siena are presented (on standards), as well as each other city of Tuscany is represented by a standard and symbolic flag.
While the crazy tourists will camp out all day and bake in Il Campo, the locals all watch the procession, then follow it into the Campo, where they are the last to enter the center to watch more procession, more flag throwing, and more regalia before they begin he horse race (around 7:20). Many false starts are due to ensue, and the actual race will happen around 8:30 or so. False starts are simple - each jockey has drawn his position (first through 10th), and they have to line up their horses (startled by the huge crowd and probably a little doped - not approved, but not checked by anyone) in order. This gives the tenth position (il posto decimo) a great advantage - he comes running in to start the race, while the rest have been trying to stand at the starting line and in their right position with their poor crazed horse.
When the winner finishes the third lap, the whole event is over, except for the winning contrada, who will quickly grab the Palio (large flag in the corner of the campo) and run back to the church of Sta. Maria in Provenzano (to whom this event is dedicated) to sing the Te Deum (which, by the way, my brother-in-law played for my wedding party's procession at our wedding last year - thank you again, Curtis!) and first give thanks to her before celebrating for weeks.

On another note, I've realized that my posts have been pretty utilitarian, and rarely bring up some of the experiences and lessons of the trip thus far. I know that you're hearing the other side of anything which the kids share, because they're not bringing any of their concerns to me, but perhaps some of these following lessons learned might apply to your conversations?
1. If you live like a king/queen at the beginning of the trip, you're feeling like a pauper at the end. In Sorrento, kids were drinking cokes-Fantas-other expensive beverages (5 euros a pop!!!) like water, and unknowingly realizing the price of this. They also chose to take taxis rather than wait for the hotel's free shuttle. Ah, the petulance of youth! When we first arrived into Siena, they were continuing this lavish spending, buying 10 euro lunches, and choosing to participate in recreational activities (whether athletic - Mark is keeping up with his swimming skills at the local pool - a gym membership cost, of which I approve, or other adult recreational activities, of which they know I disapprove). By now, mid-trip, they're probably feeling the pinch, and realizing their extravagance. Please be understanding with them, but I'm completely supportive of you limiting their expenditures. If they had kept prudent about their expenses (thank you, Barbara!), they wouldn't have spent more than 100 E a week. I even buy a book a week (to read at night), and, with buying fizzy water, gelato/granita, and some other snack daily, plus the cultural experiences for which I invite them, where I also spend my own money, I don't spend that much. Can I inform you of this and next week's cultural expenditures? This week, we're doing the Duomo stuff (10 Euros, which we already spent), and, for our free day on Saturday, I'm suggesting we go to Arezzo (about 20 Euros total, with the bus tickets, a picnic snack, and an entry fee for the museum). Sunday is another free day, but I'm going to suggest they go to San Gimignano (8 Euros round trip) or Assisi (around 20 Euros for the experience). Next week, they have more time for themselves - I'm not expecting them to attend any museums or go on any trips, but even to get back to Florence is only 14 Euros, round trip. In Rome, their museum entrances (we'll go to three of them) and transportation is all covered - they only need money for meals and snacks/water.
2. With much freedom comes as much responsibility. Your kids are already respectful and responsible, as seen throughout this trip. When they arrive to class late, they're embarrassed, not indignant. When a misunderstanding happens, they want more to correct the miscommunication rather than insist the other party's fault. They're really the best group I've ever had, and I so appreciate what you parents have done to raise such outstanding young ladies and men.

We're very lucky to have another small group with us, from DuPage, a small community college outside of Chicago. Some of our kids have bonded much with these students, and they have developed some friendships. This group is in Siena until next Friday, just like us, then we're both headed to Rome for a little touring. While they are a little older in age, our kids are so mature that they actually seem older than this group, and they make a good pairing as friends. I'm encouraged daily to see how our group works well and enjoys time with other students, yet are still prudent in their decisions and choices. Perhaps I'm a little effuse about the whole thing, but I give thanks every day to have a group like ours for this summer!

On Thursday, we will be visiting the Duomo, the main church of the city (SO MUCH better than the Duomo in Florence!), where we will learn about the infamous floor of the church and get to know a little about Pius II (Piccolomini), a fascinating pope who came from Siena - he was actually Poet Laureate of Italy before deciding to enter seminary, and quickly (the fastest in history, I belive) climbed the ladder to the Papacy. The Duomo has a full chapel dedicated to his life and collections of works. I encourage you to learn a little about the place - it's SO cool - www.sienaonline.it/duomo.html or www.operaduomo.siena.it/ for the museum.

Friday, we'll be back to normal - the craziness of the Palio will be over, and our Siena will return to the beautiful, enchanting city that it is for our last week. Until then . . .

Grazie!
Laura :)

1 comment:

Unknown said...

I am afraid the whole Moore family will be paupers after our 2 1/2 weeks in Italy!