Roma

Ahhhhhhh, Rome. My second home. And where my heart was, until I met my husband. Really, it was the closest thing to a marriage which I had in my life in my 20's - the one place I KNEW I'd return year after year, and always have the same love for it as I did the prior year.

Whenever I hear of someone going to Rome, I get that warming feeling in my chest, and recall how I feel for the city. Rome is amazing - so many places to see, so many levels to understand! Unless you live there for an extended period of time, you're not going to see everything, so instead of draining yourself of every ounce of energy, enjoy Rome for what she has to offer - her beauty, her culture, her food!

When you arrive into Rome by airport, DON'T TAKE THE TAXI to the airport - be a self-respecting tourist and save your money for food and wine! After you exit Customs (be sure you get Euros from the Bancomat while waiting for your bags), look for signs hanging from the ceiling "AI TRENI" - to the Trains. You'll have to take some escalators down, then back up, to get there, but you'll arrive at a small train station (get a snack/drink in the Bar). At the Tobacchi (big T sign - you can always get subway/bus tickets from these spots), request two tickets for the Termini Express. Find where the next Fiumicino/Termini Express train will arrive, and be sure you stamp/validate your ticket before boarding!
When you disembark from the train, you'll walk a LONG way (it seems) before you arrive into the terminal of Termini. You can buy your Romapass in the offices there, or at least get bus/metro tickets there (full-day, multi-day passes are available). Go through the front of Termini (large glass facade), and you'll see the Taxi stop on your right! Take a far cheaper taxi to your hotel.

First day in: drop off your bags, shower if you must, but eat when it's TIME to eat (not when you're hungry), and stay on your feet.

The Rocks: If you want to get over jetlag, here's a great way to stay on your feet your first day. Of course, you have to endure the old stuff - the Forum is a necessity. The Palatine is cool (and you get a great view of the Circus Maximus). Enjoy stepping along paths where people - CIVILIZED PEOPLE - have trod for almost three centuries. People were giving timeless speeches right there on the Rostra ("Friends, Romans, Countrymen . . ."), and saints were imprisoned there (Carcer Mamertinus). But enjoy being in the dust only until you're tired of it. If you MUST go into the Colosseum, do so, but please be sure you've bought your RomaPass elsewhere, so that you can pass through on the right side line! Just past the Colosseum is the church of St. Clemente, which has four levels of Rome under it (WAY COOL). The courtyard of this church has been the same one since the 11th century! Just north of the Forum/Imperial Fora - off of Via Cavour - is the church of St. Pietro in Vincoli, where you not only see the chains which held him, but you see the infamous "Moses". Take the Subway line from Colosseo down to visit the Basilica of St. Paul Fuori i Muri (I think the stop itself is St. Paolo), where you'll find Paul's remains - the best of the four major Basilicas, I think.
Take the metro back to your hotel. Shower up and head to a nice filling dinner. Can I recommend Trattoria del Pallaro, located just next to the church of St. Andrew, right between the Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Navona? It's about 30E per person for a five-course fixed price menu - FABULOUS food, and wine and dessert are included. Or, if you choose to stay near your hotel, let me share my philosophy on Roman restaurants (as Mom says): if it's open, it's good. But you might want to avoid places who have five languages on their menu.

Day two: Get up at an early time, and head to the Vatican! If you can get there early enough, you beat the crazy tourist lines. (but, of course, there's the Gelateria Old Bridge - a local fave - where you can stop while waiting in line) If you can't, head there around 1:30 PM, when everyone has gone through there. Maybe take a morning in at the Villa Borghese? Make it a totally cultural day? Consider having dinner at Pancrazio's, located just on the edge of the Campo dei Fiori - if you go down into their basement, you see some cool stuff. If you go through that doorway from their basement, you'll see the foundations of the Theatre of Pompey, where Julius Caesar was murdered (not in the Forum, like Shakespeare claims). And their signature dish is AMAZING.

Day three: Here's a fun morning walk: start at the river - the Ara Pacis and the Mausoleum of Augustus. Walk up to the Piazza del Popolo (go into that church on the far north side - famous Caravaggios), stroll down to the Spanish Steps, then walk down to the Piazza Barberini, and go into the Cappucin Crypt (just north of the large shell statue on the north corner of the piazza). See my favorite fountain (the Triton), then stroll (watch your pockets) to the Trevi Fountain, head across to the Pantheon (take a stop at Tazzo d'Oro for a Caffe Granita), then head to Piazza Navona for lunch! There are so many gems between each of these major points - fountains, picture ops, churches - it could take you a day to do this stroll. Cafe Pancotto is just east of the Piazza navona - they have mom's favorite salad!

Also, just west of the Piazza Navona, on the Via Vittorio Emanuele, is my favorite pizza place - Montecarlo's. A local favorite. Consider going there for dinner.

Day four: Tired of walking? Head up to the Piazza Garibaldi on the Gianicolo for a beautiful view of the city! Take a train to Naples, then get to the harbor and take a boat to Capri (be back in time for bed)! Take the 110 (starts and ends at Termini) around town to see if there's another spot you've missed which you HAD to see! :) Or, do what I prefer, and find a nice, hidden table somewhere in Trastevere or in the Piazza Navona, and watch people all day long. Be sure that you've had tartuffo at Tre Scalini (in Piazza navona) during your evening stroll before you leave Rome behind.

Oh, no - I've got to head to professional development training! Next on the list: Florence!