Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Grazie Mille

Of course, Rome was AMAZING. And the group was so great and tolerant of the death marches - we covered in 24 hours more than what most people see in a week of visiting the city. They will be coming home with handouts labelling every spot we visited, just in case there has been tourist overload. :)

I wanted to personally thank each of you who were on the trip for an amazing experience this year. This was, by far, the best trip I've ever led, and it's all thanks to each of you for adding to it. Maddy, thank you for being so easy-going and always bringing your bright, smiling attitude to the group. Grace, I SO appreciate your patience and sense of humor - you're able to find the fun in every situation. Lauren, it was so nice to have those great chats together - thank you for being such a wonderful listener. Grace, I'm sure everyone in the group would join me in thanking you for your being the one person they can all turn to for help, whether in directions, in instructions, or just in common sense!!! Barbara, it was a treat to continue building our friendship on the trip, and I look forward to sharing our memories through the entire next year. Stephen, thank you for keeping me mindful of staying patient and understanding - you are always such a great example of how to keep peaceful stature in challenging situations. Thomas, your sense of adventure and willingness to explore is so admirable - you made this trip so much better because of your drive to check out new opportunities. And, Mark, you were amazing on this trip - you truly became an Italian during this experience - so much that you even fooled the locals!

Thank you to all of you for this experience. There are murmurs of a possible reunion, and I'm all there!!!

Hugs,
Laura :)

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Dolci Senesi

N.B. This morning, I typed a BRILLIANT entry, only to have had the network at the school crash before I could get it posted. I'm sure you may have heard from the kids about their lack of faith in the internet at the school, and the school is aware of this. When they hear ME complain about something, they know it's bad.

Wow - the last few days before we leave! What a time we've had this week! The kids have had the chance to enjoy things without my overbearing leadership (even though I'm always around for advice), and they're really enjoying the time to have with the city before our departure on Friday morning. Yesterday, several of the kiddos returned to the area near Rapolano Terme to visit those sulphur baths again (Thomas was totally prepared, in his woven straw hat, t-shirt, and swimtrunks - he looked like a young Jimmy Buffett). Thank goodness they met at the Mercato (large market in Siena every Wednesday AM) at the beginning of class today - let the market-goers enjoy the sulphur whiff!

Today, the kids experienced their last day of touring Tuscany by visiting San Gimignano. A cute little town up on a hill, it's most known for its towers (14 now, many fallen due to disrepair), and is a great place to stroll to get away from the madness of BIG CITY Siena. They also have the best Gelateria in THE WORLD, as far as I can tell (Gelateria Santa Fina - Sta. Fina is the patroness of San Gimignano, like Sta. Catherina of Siena). Perhaps the kids went up to the Rocca (their small fortress on the top of the hill) for some beautiful views, or perhaps they climbed the Torre Grosso? I also encouraged them to visit the Duomo of the city, where there are beautiful frescoes depicting the stories of the Old and New Testaments, plus the chapel where the remains of Sta. Fina are kept.

Did the title tease you? Certainly not! The Italians are very proud of their food - if a restaurant is open, it's not going to be bad - the locals wouldn't tolerate bad restaurants in their neighborhood (even in a large city like Rome). In Tuscany, some of the favorite foods are Pecorino cheese, Prosciutto al cinghiale (wild boar), and other smoked meats and sausages, hot and smoking on the plate. But, most of all, the Siennese are very proud of their sweets. Here are a few:
riciarelli - soft, crumbly cookies coated in a thin layer of powdered sugar. Often have a hint of orange or lemon zest.
Panforte (or its sister panpepato) - Italian ( = good) version of fruitcake, it is made with honey, candied fruits, and sliced almonds. YUM
cantucci - hard cookies, looking similar to small biscotti ("twice-baked" cookies), served soaked in vin santo, a local dessert wine. Not a pleasure to eat on their own (can break your teeth!).

I promise - I'll encourage your children to consider bringing one of these home for your sampling!

Tomorrow, we're headed for a stroll through town (not unlike our first one when we were learning about the town on our first day), then to the Fortezza for a time of sharing and journaling, before we all return home to pack and prepare for our Friday morning departure. How quickly time has flown - they're all hesitant and not looking forward to leaving (always my goal). What memories they're going to bring home to you - of their friends at school, of their homestay families, of their dining experiences, of their times in the Campo, of their MANY tours with me . . .

Again, I'll try to find time while we're in Rome to write, but it may just have to happen after we return!!!

un abbraccio,
Laura :)

P.S. Thank you, Moores, for letting me know your group size! Please, if you plan to join us for dinner on Friday or Saturday night, contact me so that I can include you on my counts! a piu tarde!!!

Monday, July 7, 2008

Sciopero

The word just gives me chills, as a tour guide. sciopero = strike. The Italians have a beautiful sense of this word. When in America, we hear the word "strike", it usually hints at "an indeterminable stoppage in productivity to prove the value of a service". It does have a similar idea here in Italy, but whereas a strike only ends when a union is appeased in America, groups have a strike day in Italy, then, when it's time to bargain, they show their effectiveness back on their giorno dello sciopero. Today is a transportation strike in Italy. Well, not for trains, but for all busses and metros. That means that at 9 PM last night, the metros in the major cities all stopped, and, after the morning and lunchtime rush hour (2 PM) today, the busses stopped. No real concern - they'll be going tomorrow, and we'll all be back in class and work, and the day will continue on. But they made their statement today.

This weekend was wonderful. On Saturday, some of us went to Arezzo to see the city. We visited the Chapel, the Duomo, the city park, the Fortezza, and viewed the frescoes of Piero del Francesco, which are infamous in the town. The weather was perfect for touring - clear, sunny day, but enough shade to keep comfortable. It was WAY fun for me - the first time to visit this very cute town. And there was an antiques market going on that day, which was fun for the kids. :)

Can I tell you how impressed I am with your kids' sense of adventure? Have I said it too many times? On Sunday, a group went out into the countryside and visited one of the many bath sites which are in Tuscany. In fact, they went to the SULPHUR baths. Took some bus travel and some walking, but they had a great time! This system is much like the baths at Hot Springs, but has the salutory aid which sulphur gives to your skin and pores. Needless to say, they all returned to their homestays on Sunday evening, only to all find their homestay families announce, "Yikes! You went to the sulphur baths!" And their classroom this morning did have a whiff of rotten eggs . . .

Because of the strike today, the kids didn't have any planned activity. Tomorrow is their last free day in Siena, where they can work on getting themselves together before our departure on Friday morning. All of the kids have been given a challenge for this week: They are to make a collection/collage of everything they are going to miss in Siena (whether by list, drawings, or digital camera). At dinner in Rome on Friday night, we'll present all of our collages, and vote on the best two, which I'll award with a treat on Saturday night. Considering the imagination of these kiddos, we'll have some great ones!

My husband has joined us for this week. He absolutely loves spending his one week off a year with the kids here in Italy, seeing how they have enjoyed the trip, and how they have become Italians. And I love having him here, getting to share this experience with him. Ah, the vacations of those married to teachers!

Wednesday will be the next blog entry. This week has various opportunities to the kids - it's the Chigiana (the music conservatory) music week, where they have concerts in various places throughout town; there are movies at the Fortezza every night; the Campo is beautiful as ever, and the weather perfect in the evenings. They're going to really enjoy their last few nights before our departure, and will have to make goodbyes with people with whom they have shared these past three weeks. What great memories we have from here!

a piu tarde,
Laura :)

Friday, July 4, 2008

In Rome - please e-mail if you're meeting us there

This may feel a little early, but things are CRAZY for us when we get into Rome. So, for those of you who plan to meet your child in Rome, here are our plans:

Arrive Friday around 1, drop off bags at hotel (we can't check in until later), and tour Ancient Rome stuff (Bocca della Verita to Colosseum, then view St. Clemente and St. Pietro in Vincoli). Return to hotel, tired and dusty, around 6:30 for showers, then head to Piazza Navona for self-chosen dinner location and team-based cultural scavenger hunt. Return to hotel around 11 PM.

Saturday: 7:45 Tour Medieval and Renaissance Rome (Mausoleum of Augustus, up to Piazza del Popolo, then down along a route which ends at lunchtime at Piazza Navona). Lunch on your own. Afternoon: Vatican Museums (if your preference), then later tour the Vatican together. Return to hotel for showers, then dinner at Pizzeria Montecarlo (located just west of the Piazza Navona) around 8 or 8:30. Spend an hour or two at Piazza Navona, then return to hotel to pack bags and sleep briefly.

Sunday: We catch our shuttle from the hotel at 6:30. Thus, checkout at 6 AM.

You can each choose how it would be best to hook up with us to transfer bags and child. The best way I have found in the past is to meet (with bags) at Pizzeria Montecarlo, so that we can all have our last dinner together. Some people choose to take bags back to their hotel that evening after dinner and a little time at the Piazza (i'm always happy to share my favorite Tartufo spot - Tre Scalini - if you want to join me for chocolate decadence). Some people choose to pick up their child with bags (or sometimes without bags) on Sunday morning at 5:30 AM before our departure. It's totally your call. You child will have a Romapass with them which will be valid for the entire day on Sunday, so they can use the Metro or city bus that day with that card.

Even if you want to get your child on Sunday morning, please consider joining us for dinner on Saturday night! It's really a fun, festive spot, with GREAT pizza. If you do plan to join us, please inform me before Thursday as to how many are in your party, so that when I make reservations on Friday morning, I'll have the right number. Also, if you want to share your hotel information and contact info (cell phone, perhaps?)with me by e-mail, I can keep all that on track, and can give you more information on easily meeting up with us (and maybe a few great spots near your hotel).

Grazie tanti!
L :)

l'istrice ha vinto!!!

It's official - the Porcupine contrada won, and it was a pretty clear victory. Things got a little tight on the third circle around, but at the last corner, Torre's rider, who was closing in, didn't quite clear the corner and wiped out, slowing down his horse, as well.

Many of the kids were right there in the center, watching the whole thing, which is exciting. In fact, a few of them stood close to the most dangerous (for the riders) corner, which actually has its own name - San Martino (there's a church to San Martino in the very next piazza back from there). On the first lap around, one of the horses lost his rider. Always chaotic at that corner.

Speaking of chaotic, I'm SO happy to have the fervor and frenzy of the Palio over. The city is cleaning up, the tourists have reduced greatly, and the people are back to their calm selves. Except for the Istriche group, who will march through town with flags, drums, and the Palio for the next several months. Thank goodness for earplugs! If you see pictures of a newly victorious contrada, look closely - you'll see that, at the knot of their scarves they have a pacifier. This is because they are the newest "babies" to have won the Palio. Not unlike newly pledged sorority girls wearing the same thing around their necks (or, terribly enough, newly chosen cheerleaders - let me just express my disgust at any hazing in this mode - as a pledge trainer for four different pledge classes in college, I was well trained on how to avoid hazing, but "traditions" among groups still occur outside one's control).

Yesterday, we visited the Duomo of Siena. People, don't ever allow yourself to be confused - the Duomo of Florence is beautiful on the OUTSIDE. The Duomo of Siena has far more to offer, and the inside is amazing. We saw panels on the floor of the church which depicted Sibyls of ancient Greek and Roman times quoted by historians and poets . . . quotes which hinted at Christological references. It's not just your Old Testament any more! We also learned a little about Piccolomini, someone very important to Siena, and who eventually became Pope Pius III (taking his name after his uncle, Pope Pius II . . . nepotism at its finest). Bernini created four beautiful statues which are located in a side chapel of this church - his depiction of St. Catherine is so realistic!

Today, the kids took their first bi-weekly test, and they can share with you their individual performance. After class, we're heading back out to the Fortezza (just like last week), where we get to do a little second-week journaling. The weather has become SO much more pleasant these past three days - partially cloudy, a pleasant breeze from the north, highs of high 80's and low to mid 60's in the evening. NORMAL SIENNESE WEATHER for this time of the year. Then, at 6 PM, we're meeting back up here at the school. Actually, we're meeting downstairs at the Cooking School, because SPI has booked us for a great experience - we're having our Festa di Pizza, where we all make our own pizzas (from scratch - dough and all) and desserts, and enjoy a wonderful dinner out on the terrace behind the cooking school. Can't wait!!!

This weekend offers us many opportunities. Tomorrow, we're going to Arezzo for a day of touring with the school there. Grace is excited, because there's a church she has always wanted to visit. I'm excited because I've never been to Arezzo before, and have high hopes to see the Archaeological museum!!! We'll return in the mid-afternoon to be able to enjoy a quiet evening in Siena. Sunday is their last free day in Tuscany (nay, their last Sunday in Italy!), so the kids are grouping together to make plans for themselves. Beach? Assisi? San Gimignano? Everything is just a bus away!

As we approach this last week of our time here, the kids are starting to realize how much they have grown in this experience. This next week is such a strange one - the kids have made this town their own, and it's truly a home for them. They have their favorite places - internet, pizza, GELATO. They have the familiar faces they have come to know as they live out their daily routines here. They have the comfort of the safety of the town - Siena embraces her visiting students! They will have as much a transition when they return home as they had the first week here.

I will be sure to blog at least twice next week. On Friday morning, we head for Rome (by bus, then train, then walk/dragbag) for two VERY busy days of touring (even more busy than the first weekend). If our hotel has internet capability, I'll pause to enter a few quick notes, but you may just have to wait in suspense until we meet next!

N.B. To those of you who are meeting us in Rome, I am about to post instructions on a separate blog about our plans and information!

Grazie tanti,
L :)

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Bonus!

Let's just say I'm feeling festive, but thought I'd add a little aesthetics to the blog . . .

During our stay, we learn about the saints who so influence the history of the area where we live. St. Catherine, for the love of the Church, built her influence so greatly that she was able to convince the Papacy to return to Rome, and to have a new effective Pope installed to the See. For the love of his city, Siena, St. Bernardino (he's recognizable by the IHS on his bible in any artwork) preached throughout the city and dedicated his life to ensuring the faith of the people of his city. When we get to Rome, we'll learn about the sacrifices which many people made to ensure that their gifts were used to bless the city. Out of love/respect for the Pope (and not necessarily pleasure), Michaelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel, and created such amazing works such as the Pieta. In love, Peter and Paul both brought themselves to Rome in knowledge that they would end their journeys there.

We do many things for love. Out of love for your children, you made the sacrifice emotionally and financially to send them on this experience. And, out of love of them, you listen to them and allow them to experience these great changes as young adults. For love of having a "family" in her home, my homestay mom continues hosting people, even though she has recently lost her only son (just this spring), after her husband's death a few years ago. For the love of Italy, I began this program, and specially choose the students who will join me each year. And, for the greatest love I've known, I will probably soon end these trips and continue my life onto even better unknown things.

St. Paul says that the greatest of all things is love, and I believe that, if you allow your life to be driven by love, everything else falls easily into place.

L ;)

Oggi . . . Il Palio

Today's the day! After 3 days of complete madness (among locals and tourists alike), today is the day of the Palio! Here's how our day will go:
8 AM - the Mass for the Jockeys - happened in Il Campo - Mark and Stephen had the chance to catch it while walking to school this morning - right there, in front of the Palazzo Pubblico, the Archbishop of Siena (who oversees the Mass at the Duomo) did a blessing over the jockeys and the Capitani.
9 AM - 1:30 PM class
Immediately after class, the kids either follow with their teacher or me to watch one of the services where they have il Benedictione del Cavallo (the blessing of the horse). Then, we will all go to hang out by the Duomo and watch the Passegiata Storica, a long parade where all the contrade present their standards and salute the Duomo with flags. Also, part of the procession includes a section where the virtues of Siena are presented (on standards), as well as each other city of Tuscany is represented by a standard and symbolic flag.
While the crazy tourists will camp out all day and bake in Il Campo, the locals all watch the procession, then follow it into the Campo, where they are the last to enter the center to watch more procession, more flag throwing, and more regalia before they begin he horse race (around 7:20). Many false starts are due to ensue, and the actual race will happen around 8:30 or so. False starts are simple - each jockey has drawn his position (first through 10th), and they have to line up their horses (startled by the huge crowd and probably a little doped - not approved, but not checked by anyone) in order. This gives the tenth position (il posto decimo) a great advantage - he comes running in to start the race, while the rest have been trying to stand at the starting line and in their right position with their poor crazed horse.
When the winner finishes the third lap, the whole event is over, except for the winning contrada, who will quickly grab the Palio (large flag in the corner of the campo) and run back to the church of Sta. Maria in Provenzano (to whom this event is dedicated) to sing the Te Deum (which, by the way, my brother-in-law played for my wedding party's procession at our wedding last year - thank you again, Curtis!) and first give thanks to her before celebrating for weeks.

On another note, I've realized that my posts have been pretty utilitarian, and rarely bring up some of the experiences and lessons of the trip thus far. I know that you're hearing the other side of anything which the kids share, because they're not bringing any of their concerns to me, but perhaps some of these following lessons learned might apply to your conversations?
1. If you live like a king/queen at the beginning of the trip, you're feeling like a pauper at the end. In Sorrento, kids were drinking cokes-Fantas-other expensive beverages (5 euros a pop!!!) like water, and unknowingly realizing the price of this. They also chose to take taxis rather than wait for the hotel's free shuttle. Ah, the petulance of youth! When we first arrived into Siena, they were continuing this lavish spending, buying 10 euro lunches, and choosing to participate in recreational activities (whether athletic - Mark is keeping up with his swimming skills at the local pool - a gym membership cost, of which I approve, or other adult recreational activities, of which they know I disapprove). By now, mid-trip, they're probably feeling the pinch, and realizing their extravagance. Please be understanding with them, but I'm completely supportive of you limiting their expenditures. If they had kept prudent about their expenses (thank you, Barbara!), they wouldn't have spent more than 100 E a week. I even buy a book a week (to read at night), and, with buying fizzy water, gelato/granita, and some other snack daily, plus the cultural experiences for which I invite them, where I also spend my own money, I don't spend that much. Can I inform you of this and next week's cultural expenditures? This week, we're doing the Duomo stuff (10 Euros, which we already spent), and, for our free day on Saturday, I'm suggesting we go to Arezzo (about 20 Euros total, with the bus tickets, a picnic snack, and an entry fee for the museum). Sunday is another free day, but I'm going to suggest they go to San Gimignano (8 Euros round trip) or Assisi (around 20 Euros for the experience). Next week, they have more time for themselves - I'm not expecting them to attend any museums or go on any trips, but even to get back to Florence is only 14 Euros, round trip. In Rome, their museum entrances (we'll go to three of them) and transportation is all covered - they only need money for meals and snacks/water.
2. With much freedom comes as much responsibility. Your kids are already respectful and responsible, as seen throughout this trip. When they arrive to class late, they're embarrassed, not indignant. When a misunderstanding happens, they want more to correct the miscommunication rather than insist the other party's fault. They're really the best group I've ever had, and I so appreciate what you parents have done to raise such outstanding young ladies and men.

We're very lucky to have another small group with us, from DuPage, a small community college outside of Chicago. Some of our kids have bonded much with these students, and they have developed some friendships. This group is in Siena until next Friday, just like us, then we're both headed to Rome for a little touring. While they are a little older in age, our kids are so mature that they actually seem older than this group, and they make a good pairing as friends. I'm encouraged daily to see how our group works well and enjoys time with other students, yet are still prudent in their decisions and choices. Perhaps I'm a little effuse about the whole thing, but I give thanks every day to have a group like ours for this summer!

On Thursday, we will be visiting the Duomo, the main church of the city (SO MUCH better than the Duomo in Florence!), where we will learn about the infamous floor of the church and get to know a little about Pius II (Piccolomini), a fascinating pope who came from Siena - he was actually Poet Laureate of Italy before deciding to enter seminary, and quickly (the fastest in history, I belive) climbed the ladder to the Papacy. The Duomo has a full chapel dedicated to his life and collections of works. I encourage you to learn a little about the place - it's SO cool - www.sienaonline.it/duomo.html or www.operaduomo.siena.it/ for the museum.

Friday, we'll be back to normal - the craziness of the Palio will be over, and our Siena will return to the beautiful, enchanting city that it is for our last week. Until then . . .

Grazie!
Laura :)