The experience of the sacred is so important to Christian pilgrims when visiting Italy. And the opportunities abound. Of course, there are the standard spots - The Vatican and the three other big basilicas in Rome, the burial sites of saints and holy people, the relics which are interred around and under altars in churches all over Italy . . .
I have been fortunate to see some of the less-visited sites with Reginald Foster, who is not only a great Latin teacher, but an inspiring leader of pilgrims. If you have the opportunity and time during your visits in Rome, may I suggest visiting a few of the following by train:
1. History buff? Visit Cicero's tomb in Formia (along the train line going from Rome to Naples - take the Regionale), and enjoy seeing the ancient fish-holding tanks down by the shore. A day in Formia is totally worth it - they have a nice archaeological museum, and it's always nice to spend an afternoon by the seashore. Just allow time to walk back up to the train station!
2. Seeking the sacred? Fossanova Abbey, located near the Priverno train stop (along the same line as Formia), is the location of St. Thomas Aquinas' death. The walk to the Abbey is beautiful, and remote, but not without a great family-owned pizzeria on the way. While the church itself is BEAUTIFUL, you can also find St. Thomas' mule's hoofprints and a beautiful upper-room chapel where St. Thomas stayed until his death.
3. Lake Albano has some beautiful small towns around it - even the Pope agrees - which is why he summers at Castel Gandolfo. CUTE spot to visit!!! It also appeases you if you're a history buff - they say that it's where the city of Alba Longa was located . . .
4. WWII fan? You can't go to Italy without visiting Monte Cassino, which was a long-standing Monastery in southern Lazio (just before you get to Campania). In WWII, rumors were that it was housing important Axis powers' stuff, and the Allies bombed it, to learn that there was nothing in there worth the destruction. On the Cassino train stop, you can make the stroll all the way up to the modern monastery for a tour of an amazing historical location! From the freeway, it's a forbidding-looking fortress.
SPI friends, we'll be driving by Monte Cassino, and might get a quick glimpse of Formia, but these are definitely experiences to have when you return to Italy to do your own traveling (and use your Italian skills)!
L :)
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Price - Travel Days
Just a last few thoughts as you prepare to leave:
1. Are you renting a car or taking the train for your travels? Either way, consider making the following stops during your travel days:
Rome to Florence - (depending on if you have reservations for the Uffizi/Academia in Florence) consider stopping in Orvieto on the way up - a SUPER-charming little town! There's always Tivoli, too, and the Villa d'Este (I'd personally stop at Hadrian's Villa, but it's a bunch of rocks for most people).
Florence to Chianti - it will take you no time to get to wherever you're going (probably 2 hours at the most), so make a nice lunch break/afternoon stop at one of the small towns like Montalcino or Montepulciano, and visit a neighboring vineyard.
Chianti to Emilia Romano - Arezzo is right on the Northern border of Tuscany, as you head towards this new region of Italy. Very manageable city, and I've got to recommend going to the Archaeological museum (which is built into the ancient Amphitheatre of the city). Plus, the art on the northern side of the city is cool!!!
Emilia Romano to Venice - by all means, stop by one of the auto producers on your way to Venice! SERIOUSLY!!!
From what I hear, the drive from Venice to Lake Como, then on to Milan, is beautiful enough for its own view.
Please, if anything comes up during your stay, feel free to write me (by this blog or by e-mail), and I'll be happy to look up anything for you!!!
BUON VIAGGIO!
L :)
1. Are you renting a car or taking the train for your travels? Either way, consider making the following stops during your travel days:
Rome to Florence - (depending on if you have reservations for the Uffizi/Academia in Florence) consider stopping in Orvieto on the way up - a SUPER-charming little town! There's always Tivoli, too, and the Villa d'Este (I'd personally stop at Hadrian's Villa, but it's a bunch of rocks for most people).
Florence to Chianti - it will take you no time to get to wherever you're going (probably 2 hours at the most), so make a nice lunch break/afternoon stop at one of the small towns like Montalcino or Montepulciano, and visit a neighboring vineyard.
Chianti to Emilia Romano - Arezzo is right on the Northern border of Tuscany, as you head towards this new region of Italy. Very manageable city, and I've got to recommend going to the Archaeological museum (which is built into the ancient Amphitheatre of the city). Plus, the art on the northern side of the city is cool!!!
Emilia Romano to Venice - by all means, stop by one of the auto producers on your way to Venice! SERIOUSLY!!!
From what I hear, the drive from Venice to Lake Como, then on to Milan, is beautiful enough for its own view.
Please, if anything comes up during your stay, feel free to write me (by this blog or by e-mail), and I'll be happy to look up anything for you!!!
BUON VIAGGIO!
L :)
Tempus fugit
Wow - I can't believe it - Orrocks are already in Italy (and I hope you're enjoying every SECOND of it - if anything comes up, just e-mail me, and I can get you advice as quickly as possible), and you're headed out next week, Price!!!
I've almost officially hit my limit as to advice and suggestions, simply because my standard touring area is Tuscany and south!!! I've got a little about Venice in this passage, but when it comes to those beautiful spots north of there, I've yet to visit myself (ah, when I have a year to travel with Jay as ADULTS) . . .
REALLY enjoy your time in Emilia Romano - for the time you'll spend there, you probably be able to allow a day of peace (rest, do laundry, catch up on upcoming plans). Get to know the area, and find out from your concierge (or your town's tourist stop) about concerts which are happening during your stay. May is a ripe time for Spring Festivals, too, and many small towns are honoring their patron saint during this time! And, for this region, the most important goal for you is to eat, and eat well. Hit those indoor food markets, and drink the wine (yes, Dad will tell you that lambrusco's not my favorite, but when you're in the place where it's made . . .). Stuff yourself. And, by all means, eat Parmesan every day. Sprinkled with pepper and drizzled with honey, it makes a perfect dessert.
Don't worry - you'll walk it all off while in Venice. Be sure to plan a day to take the vaporetti out to Murano (and buy lots of glass pieces), and possibly spend another 1/2 day checking out the lace in Burano. Expect to spend a few hours touring St. Marco's. And, for the rest of the time, enjoy the personality of the city - the back, winding corridors; the hidden churches; the small facades of random buildings. As I mentioned in my Transportation blog, be sure to use the 24-hour Vaporetti tickets and save money for wine and dinner!
Lake Como? I can't even write anything here - too jealous. Just enjoy the very beauty of it all.
And, finally, Milan. Of course, you will see the Last Supper. You'll visit the Duomo. You'll check out the fashion. Please be sure to take the time to savor your last few days in Italy, though. You've had an INCREDIBLE trip!!!
L :)
I've almost officially hit my limit as to advice and suggestions, simply because my standard touring area is Tuscany and south!!! I've got a little about Venice in this passage, but when it comes to those beautiful spots north of there, I've yet to visit myself (ah, when I have a year to travel with Jay as ADULTS) . . .
REALLY enjoy your time in Emilia Romano - for the time you'll spend there, you probably be able to allow a day of peace (rest, do laundry, catch up on upcoming plans). Get to know the area, and find out from your concierge (or your town's tourist stop) about concerts which are happening during your stay. May is a ripe time for Spring Festivals, too, and many small towns are honoring their patron saint during this time! And, for this region, the most important goal for you is to eat, and eat well. Hit those indoor food markets, and drink the wine (yes, Dad will tell you that lambrusco's not my favorite, but when you're in the place where it's made . . .). Stuff yourself. And, by all means, eat Parmesan every day. Sprinkled with pepper and drizzled with honey, it makes a perfect dessert.
Don't worry - you'll walk it all off while in Venice. Be sure to plan a day to take the vaporetti out to Murano (and buy lots of glass pieces), and possibly spend another 1/2 day checking out the lace in Burano. Expect to spend a few hours touring St. Marco's. And, for the rest of the time, enjoy the personality of the city - the back, winding corridors; the hidden churches; the small facades of random buildings. As I mentioned in my Transportation blog, be sure to use the 24-hour Vaporetti tickets and save money for wine and dinner!
Lake Como? I can't even write anything here - too jealous. Just enjoy the very beauty of it all.
And, finally, Milan. Of course, you will see the Last Supper. You'll visit the Duomo. You'll check out the fashion. Please be sure to take the time to savor your last few days in Italy, though. You've had an INCREDIBLE trip!!!
L :)
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Public Transportation in Italy
It seems everyone has picked up on this in Europe, and, the Italians, for all their brilliance in their public transportation systems, have totally embraced the idea of the INTEGRALE in tourism.
In Rome, the Romapass (15E) offers you a three-day bus/metro pass with a card which gives you two free entrances into most of their major museums (totally rocks to avoid the long Colosseum lines), then discounted prices on any entrances past then. I LOVE the bus system in Rome (Metro will be great for you April/May travelers, but I'll only use it upon absolute necessity in July) - so many routes, all the way to midnight, then there's always a route you'll find midnight to 6 AM for you late-night goers (like me). Remember, as long as you know where you're going, the bus signs all read from top to bottom. If you want to plan out bus routes during your stay, check out Rome's ATAC website online. You can buy a cheap bus map at any of the Tobacchi, too, when you arrive.
If you choose to just get the daily bus passes at the Tobacchi (don't do it!!!), remember that a Giornaliero bus pass ends at midnight, and you have to validate a new ticket to get home after an evening out.
***Want to get a good tour of the whole city, then decide where you want to spend your time? The 110, starting and ending at Termini, is a city-wide route where you can get on and off along the route, then just board the next bus when you're ready to move on. A great way to tour heavily in one day, then enjoy the rest of your days.
In Florence, they have the Amici degli Uffizi card, but with your short stay there (smart idea), you can more easily simply get reservations at each museum, and schedule your day appropriately that way. And, really, for as central as Florence is, you probably don't have to use the bus system - the train and bus stations (SMN) are so central!
***Florence, too, has a city tour bus which will take you around town - a nice way to rest your feet for an hour or two!
In Venice, they have this thing called the "Venice Connected" (check out http://www.veniceconnected.com/ - it's a great idea, but you have to book in advance), but unless you're a crazy pre-planner, you might want to consider just getting a vaporetto ticket. These run from 12-hours all the way to 7-days (I love how the 24-hour tickets REALLY are that - once you've validated it, you have a full 24 hours - no expiring at midnight like the Cinderella-style day-long Roma tickets). And, really, the vaporetto is a great system - frequently comes, and they don't mind if you bring your bags on . . . briefly. Gondolas are cute, but the difference in price is SO worth the better wine at dinner.
For the other areas, there are regional systems, whether by bus (Sena, for instance, out of Siena) or by train (the Circumvesuviana around the Bay of Naples) - just check out what's available in the area through websites and tour books!
And, of course, there's nothing wrong with falling in love with one spot, and sitting still for a good three days in a pleasant piazza somewhere . . .
L :)
In Rome, the Romapass (15E) offers you a three-day bus/metro pass with a card which gives you two free entrances into most of their major museums (totally rocks to avoid the long Colosseum lines), then discounted prices on any entrances past then. I LOVE the bus system in Rome (Metro will be great for you April/May travelers, but I'll only use it upon absolute necessity in July) - so many routes, all the way to midnight, then there's always a route you'll find midnight to 6 AM for you late-night goers (like me). Remember, as long as you know where you're going, the bus signs all read from top to bottom. If you want to plan out bus routes during your stay, check out Rome's ATAC website online. You can buy a cheap bus map at any of the Tobacchi, too, when you arrive.
If you choose to just get the daily bus passes at the Tobacchi (don't do it!!!), remember that a Giornaliero bus pass ends at midnight, and you have to validate a new ticket to get home after an evening out.
***Want to get a good tour of the whole city, then decide where you want to spend your time? The 110, starting and ending at Termini, is a city-wide route where you can get on and off along the route, then just board the next bus when you're ready to move on. A great way to tour heavily in one day, then enjoy the rest of your days.
In Florence, they have the Amici degli Uffizi card, but with your short stay there (smart idea), you can more easily simply get reservations at each museum, and schedule your day appropriately that way. And, really, for as central as Florence is, you probably don't have to use the bus system - the train and bus stations (SMN) are so central!
***Florence, too, has a city tour bus which will take you around town - a nice way to rest your feet for an hour or two!
In Venice, they have this thing called the "Venice Connected" (check out http://www.veniceconnected.com/ - it's a great idea, but you have to book in advance), but unless you're a crazy pre-planner, you might want to consider just getting a vaporetto ticket. These run from 12-hours all the way to 7-days (I love how the 24-hour tickets REALLY are that - once you've validated it, you have a full 24 hours - no expiring at midnight like the Cinderella-style day-long Roma tickets). And, really, the vaporetto is a great system - frequently comes, and they don't mind if you bring your bags on . . . briefly. Gondolas are cute, but the difference in price is SO worth the better wine at dinner.
For the other areas, there are regional systems, whether by bus (Sena, for instance, out of Siena) or by train (the Circumvesuviana around the Bay of Naples) - just check out what's available in the area through websites and tour books!
And, of course, there's nothing wrong with falling in love with one spot, and sitting still for a good three days in a pleasant piazza somewhere . . .
L :)
Monday, April 13, 2009
Chianti
There's a reason I choose to take students back to Siena every year . . . even though my heart belongs to Rome. The cities in the Chianti region of Tuscany are THE most charming, beautiful ones anywhere in Italy. I'll talk about a few here, but you really can't miss out, no matter where you choose to go.
West of Florence (not really Chianti territory) is Lucca, a small, walled city, famed for touring by bike. It's a rare spot where people will cancel their travel plans upon arrival, just to get more time in that city. Lucca and Siena are those kind of towns. Of course, west of Florence is also Pisa. Don't have much to say about that city (when the kids ask if, on their off-day, they can go to Pisa, I reply, "Go ahead."). I'm not a fan of tourist traps.
South of Florence is everything else.
San Gimignano is a must-do, even if only for a few hours. Visit the church where Sta. Fina is buried, and spend some time admiring the frescoes. Climb the Torre Grosso, and be sure to stroll up to the Rocca. And you HAVE to have gelato in the Piazza della Cisterna (it's the one on the west side of the piazza, with all the neon, which claims to have the best Gelato in the world - they really do).
Consider staying in Siena. It's absolutely magical, especially from sunset on. There are great museums, great palaces, and great people there. The food is incredible - one of my favorite spots is in the Piazza del Mercato - the one with the brown umbrellas - try any of the roasted meats or sausages on the menu. Also, the Pizzeria Quatro Venti (I think), located just down the street from the Duomo, right at the intersection of Aquila and Pantera, is a personal recommendation. (With this short mention, I'm doing no justice to this amazing city. Just know what kind of love I have for this town, that I return every year - this will be my sixth year to return to Siena for homestays. And my homestay mom is the best - Dina embodies all that is beautiful about Siena - her hospitality, her generosity, her full-hearted-ness, her amazing cooking skills . . .) Siena even has their own special Chianti, which, I argue, is better than the rest. It's grown in the crete Senesi, the clay fields just outside of Siena, which gives it a great flavor. Look for the black rooster on the label.
Smaller towns, like Montalcino, or Montepulciano, are surrounded by vineyards. All of them have their own beautiful charm and personality. One famed town is Cortona (Under the Tuscan Sun), but anywhere else similar is as wonderful.
If you go super-south in Tuscany, you'll love Orvieto. What a cute town!
Out east, consider going to Arrezzo - the Archaeological museum is actually built into the standing amphitheatre. And their art collections are incredible (not to mention, the churches). Really, a beautiful town, which carries many Tuscan qualities, yet has its own personality, too. Ever seen "La Vita e Bella"? Some earlier scenes were shot there.
In Siena, just to the south of Il Campo, is a tourist office, where you can book afternoon-long wine tours (2 - 7 PM), perfect for the wine experience (and with a pro). I'm sending my hugs out to Marco on this.
Never can say enough about the Tuscan wine country. Just be sure to enjoy your time there, and never allow the tourist rush to ruin your peaceful strolls!
Grazie,
Laura :)
P.S. Most of my monthly newsletters for the kids mentions something about Siena or Tuscany in them. Pillage all you'd like from the SPI 2009 group.
West of Florence (not really Chianti territory) is Lucca, a small, walled city, famed for touring by bike. It's a rare spot where people will cancel their travel plans upon arrival, just to get more time in that city. Lucca and Siena are those kind of towns. Of course, west of Florence is also Pisa. Don't have much to say about that city (when the kids ask if, on their off-day, they can go to Pisa, I reply, "Go ahead."). I'm not a fan of tourist traps.
South of Florence is everything else.
San Gimignano is a must-do, even if only for a few hours. Visit the church where Sta. Fina is buried, and spend some time admiring the frescoes. Climb the Torre Grosso, and be sure to stroll up to the Rocca. And you HAVE to have gelato in the Piazza della Cisterna (it's the one on the west side of the piazza, with all the neon, which claims to have the best Gelato in the world - they really do).
Consider staying in Siena. It's absolutely magical, especially from sunset on. There are great museums, great palaces, and great people there. The food is incredible - one of my favorite spots is in the Piazza del Mercato - the one with the brown umbrellas - try any of the roasted meats or sausages on the menu. Also, the Pizzeria Quatro Venti (I think), located just down the street from the Duomo, right at the intersection of Aquila and Pantera, is a personal recommendation. (With this short mention, I'm doing no justice to this amazing city. Just know what kind of love I have for this town, that I return every year - this will be my sixth year to return to Siena for homestays. And my homestay mom is the best - Dina embodies all that is beautiful about Siena - her hospitality, her generosity, her full-hearted-ness, her amazing cooking skills . . .) Siena even has their own special Chianti, which, I argue, is better than the rest. It's grown in the crete Senesi, the clay fields just outside of Siena, which gives it a great flavor. Look for the black rooster on the label.
Smaller towns, like Montalcino, or Montepulciano, are surrounded by vineyards. All of them have their own beautiful charm and personality. One famed town is Cortona (Under the Tuscan Sun), but anywhere else similar is as wonderful.
If you go super-south in Tuscany, you'll love Orvieto. What a cute town!
Out east, consider going to Arrezzo - the Archaeological museum is actually built into the standing amphitheatre. And their art collections are incredible (not to mention, the churches). Really, a beautiful town, which carries many Tuscan qualities, yet has its own personality, too. Ever seen "La Vita e Bella"? Some earlier scenes were shot there.
In Siena, just to the south of Il Campo, is a tourist office, where you can book afternoon-long wine tours (2 - 7 PM), perfect for the wine experience (and with a pro). I'm sending my hugs out to Marco on this.
Never can say enough about the Tuscan wine country. Just be sure to enjoy your time there, and never allow the tourist rush to ruin your peaceful strolls!
Grazie,
Laura :)
P.S. Most of my monthly newsletters for the kids mentions something about Siena or Tuscany in them. Pillage all you'd like from the SPI 2009 group.
Monday, April 6, 2009
Earthquake!!!
You probably have heard of the terrible earthquake which happened just outside of L'Aquila ("the eagle") this morning. It was a beast - killed many people, and left thousands homeless. One part which hits close to home is the fact that there are several American universities' campuses located in L'Aquila, including a school very near to my heart. Plus, it's not far from where the Pope spends his summers - let's hope that beautiful site doesn't fall!!!
Earthquakes and other earth-moving natural disasters aren't foreign to the Italians. Italy is located right on a shifting plate - it's what causes the Appenines to exist so close to the ocean. It's what causes things like Vesuvius to blow. It's what causes places like the Basilica di San Francesco to be rattled so hard that its timeless frescoes become . . . well . . . time-threatened. It's also what brings such beauty to the region, as well - many of the ancient buildings still standing today had foundations of tufa rock, and we wouldn't have Pompeii if it weren't for the burying.
With this week being holy week, I wanted to talk about some of the great sacred locations in Rome and the vicinity. One NOT-TO-BE-MISSED spot - make it an intentional part of your everyday stroll in Rome - is the Bridge of Angels, just near the Castel Sant'Angelo. You can easily view it online - to be visually reminded of those devices of torture used against Christ is incredibly moving for a Christian in her Lenten spirit. You quickly realize that these physical devices are metaphors for our own behavior, and, while looking each angel in the face, you see your own self. What an amazingly graceful loving Savior we have, who was the innocent sacrifice on behalf our own sins!!!
Consider entering the Castel Sant' Angelo, as well - it is an amazing structure, from the original tumulus of Hadrian, all the way to the ornate ceilings of the Papal apartments. And to view Rome from the Angel Michael's viewpoint . . . wow . . . a great place to feel a little freedom after being tourist-cattle in the Vatican!
Did I say I was continuing on to Chianti? Tomorrow . . .
Earthquakes and other earth-moving natural disasters aren't foreign to the Italians. Italy is located right on a shifting plate - it's what causes the Appenines to exist so close to the ocean. It's what causes things like Vesuvius to blow. It's what causes places like the Basilica di San Francesco to be rattled so hard that its timeless frescoes become . . . well . . . time-threatened. It's also what brings such beauty to the region, as well - many of the ancient buildings still standing today had foundations of tufa rock, and we wouldn't have Pompeii if it weren't for the burying.
With this week being holy week, I wanted to talk about some of the great sacred locations in Rome and the vicinity. One NOT-TO-BE-MISSED spot - make it an intentional part of your everyday stroll in Rome - is the Bridge of Angels, just near the Castel Sant'Angelo. You can easily view it online - to be visually reminded of those devices of torture used against Christ is incredibly moving for a Christian in her Lenten spirit. You quickly realize that these physical devices are metaphors for our own behavior, and, while looking each angel in the face, you see your own self. What an amazingly graceful loving Savior we have, who was the innocent sacrifice on behalf our own sins!!!
Consider entering the Castel Sant' Angelo, as well - it is an amazing structure, from the original tumulus of Hadrian, all the way to the ornate ceilings of the Papal apartments. And to view Rome from the Angel Michael's viewpoint . . . wow . . . a great place to feel a little freedom after being tourist-cattle in the Vatican!
Did I say I was continuing on to Chianti? Tomorrow . . .
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Firenze
So, you're staying in Florence for just one day? TOTALLY a smart move! Not that I have that much Florence disdain, but the rest of Tuscany is just far more charming (and peaceful)!!!
If you're using your own transportation, you should be able to park somewhere designated by your hotel. However, I prefer to use public transportation (again, direct your expenses towards food and wine, not traveling!), which is perfectly comfortable. In fact, if you can use busses, they're the best option - you're still gambling for A/C if you take a train.
Museums and churches have really figured it out by offering the ability to make reservations, and, for ease, I'd recommend that you get reservations for the places where you absolutely MUST visit - the Uffizi and the Academia (to see Il Davide). I'd suggest that you plan to spend two hours in the Uffizi - but you could spend DAYS in there - and at least an hour in the Academia (there are many other great works in there besides the statue), and it takes about 20-30 minutes to get between the two in a comfortable stride. Once you've done those must-dos, there are some amazing churches to visit in this Art-breathing town. (Based on the Duomo, which is more beautiful outside than inside, but totally check out the Bapistery next door) To the east is Santa Croce, a beautiful church and piazza, where you can see the graves of several famous people. Just near the train/bus stations is Santa Maria Novella, which possesses amazing frescoes inside, and, if you go around behind the church, you'll find their Pharmacia, which has amazing perfumes, soaps, etc. Great gifts to take home.
Looking for a great view? Piazzale Michaelangelo, to the south of the river, is AMAZING, and has some really nice restaurants in the area. The Palazzo Pitti is beautiful, and worthy of its own time, but if you're in town for only a day, I'd take on the above mentioned museums instead.
Just like in any big city (like Rome), look out for pickpocketing - more caused by the visiting student population than the locals. You'll find recommendations for restaurants everywhere, but, again, often the best restaurant you'll find is the one you see when you're wanting the rest and snacks! I always recommend wandering off the path to find a good spot, to take some time away from the rush of covering such an amazing city in such a few hours.
I forgot to mention this in the Rome passage - be sure to take time every day to enjoy some peace. There's a reason why Italians have their rest time in the middle of the day, and there's nothing wrong with you doing the same thing. Savor the time to renew yourself after a morning of hard touring, and you'll enjoy your late nights out so much more!!!
You're heading to Chianti after this - have you booked a hotel in a city yet? If you're headed to Siena, there is a cheap and comfortable bus (departing often - almost every hour in the middle of the day and evenings) for 6-7E per person which will take you directly to the train station or Piazza Gramsci, the central bus station of town. Check out the SENA bus line website. There are many trains going out of Florence to the Chianti countryside, too - if you check out the schedule on the Trenitalia website, you might just find the perfect train to get you out of Florence, too!
On to Chianti!!!
L :)
If you're using your own transportation, you should be able to park somewhere designated by your hotel. However, I prefer to use public transportation (again, direct your expenses towards food and wine, not traveling!), which is perfectly comfortable. In fact, if you can use busses, they're the best option - you're still gambling for A/C if you take a train.
Museums and churches have really figured it out by offering the ability to make reservations, and, for ease, I'd recommend that you get reservations for the places where you absolutely MUST visit - the Uffizi and the Academia (to see Il Davide). I'd suggest that you plan to spend two hours in the Uffizi - but you could spend DAYS in there - and at least an hour in the Academia (there are many other great works in there besides the statue), and it takes about 20-30 minutes to get between the two in a comfortable stride. Once you've done those must-dos, there are some amazing churches to visit in this Art-breathing town. (Based on the Duomo, which is more beautiful outside than inside, but totally check out the Bapistery next door) To the east is Santa Croce, a beautiful church and piazza, where you can see the graves of several famous people. Just near the train/bus stations is Santa Maria Novella, which possesses amazing frescoes inside, and, if you go around behind the church, you'll find their Pharmacia, which has amazing perfumes, soaps, etc. Great gifts to take home.
Looking for a great view? Piazzale Michaelangelo, to the south of the river, is AMAZING, and has some really nice restaurants in the area. The Palazzo Pitti is beautiful, and worthy of its own time, but if you're in town for only a day, I'd take on the above mentioned museums instead.
Just like in any big city (like Rome), look out for pickpocketing - more caused by the visiting student population than the locals. You'll find recommendations for restaurants everywhere, but, again, often the best restaurant you'll find is the one you see when you're wanting the rest and snacks! I always recommend wandering off the path to find a good spot, to take some time away from the rush of covering such an amazing city in such a few hours.
I forgot to mention this in the Rome passage - be sure to take time every day to enjoy some peace. There's a reason why Italians have their rest time in the middle of the day, and there's nothing wrong with you doing the same thing. Savor the time to renew yourself after a morning of hard touring, and you'll enjoy your late nights out so much more!!!
You're heading to Chianti after this - have you booked a hotel in a city yet? If you're headed to Siena, there is a cheap and comfortable bus (departing often - almost every hour in the middle of the day and evenings) for 6-7E per person which will take you directly to the train station or Piazza Gramsci, the central bus station of town. Check out the SENA bus line website. There are many trains going out of Florence to the Chianti countryside, too - if you check out the schedule on the Trenitalia website, you might just find the perfect train to get you out of Florence, too!
On to Chianti!!!
L :)
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Files?
Want to see the newsletters which I make for my students' edification? After April 3, I'll have all of my newsletters/handouts posted on the SPI Italy Group (see the menu on the left?) - feel free to check these out for yourself!
Hugs,
L :)
Hugs,
L :)
Roma
Ahhhhhhh, Rome. My second home. And where my heart was, until I met my husband. Really, it was the closest thing to a marriage which I had in my life in my 20's - the one place I KNEW I'd return year after year, and always have the same love for it as I did the prior year.
Whenever I hear of someone going to Rome, I get that warming feeling in my chest, and recall how I feel for the city. Rome is amazing - so many places to see, so many levels to understand! Unless you live there for an extended period of time, you're not going to see everything, so instead of draining yourself of every ounce of energy, enjoy Rome for what she has to offer - her beauty, her culture, her food!
When you arrive into Rome by airport, DON'T TAKE THE TAXI to the airport - be a self-respecting tourist and save your money for food and wine! After you exit Customs (be sure you get Euros from the Bancomat while waiting for your bags), look for signs hanging from the ceiling "AI TRENI" - to the Trains. You'll have to take some escalators down, then back up, to get there, but you'll arrive at a small train station (get a snack/drink in the Bar). At the Tobacchi (big T sign - you can always get subway/bus tickets from these spots), request two tickets for the Termini Express. Find where the next Fiumicino/Termini Express train will arrive, and be sure you stamp/validate your ticket before boarding!
When you disembark from the train, you'll walk a LONG way (it seems) before you arrive into the terminal of Termini. You can buy your Romapass in the offices there, or at least get bus/metro tickets there (full-day, multi-day passes are available). Go through the front of Termini (large glass facade), and you'll see the Taxi stop on your right! Take a far cheaper taxi to your hotel.
First day in: drop off your bags, shower if you must, but eat when it's TIME to eat (not when you're hungry), and stay on your feet.
The Rocks: If you want to get over jetlag, here's a great way to stay on your feet your first day. Of course, you have to endure the old stuff - the Forum is a necessity. The Palatine is cool (and you get a great view of the Circus Maximus). Enjoy stepping along paths where people - CIVILIZED PEOPLE - have trod for almost three centuries. People were giving timeless speeches right there on the Rostra ("Friends, Romans, Countrymen . . ."), and saints were imprisoned there (Carcer Mamertinus). But enjoy being in the dust only until you're tired of it. If you MUST go into the Colosseum, do so, but please be sure you've bought your RomaPass elsewhere, so that you can pass through on the right side line! Just past the Colosseum is the church of St. Clemente, which has four levels of Rome under it (WAY COOL). The courtyard of this church has been the same one since the 11th century! Just north of the Forum/Imperial Fora - off of Via Cavour - is the church of St. Pietro in Vincoli, where you not only see the chains which held him, but you see the infamous "Moses". Take the Subway line from Colosseo down to visit the Basilica of St. Paul Fuori i Muri (I think the stop itself is St. Paolo), where you'll find Paul's remains - the best of the four major Basilicas, I think.
Take the metro back to your hotel. Shower up and head to a nice filling dinner. Can I recommend Trattoria del Pallaro, located just next to the church of St. Andrew, right between the Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Navona? It's about 30E per person for a five-course fixed price menu - FABULOUS food, and wine and dessert are included. Or, if you choose to stay near your hotel, let me share my philosophy on Roman restaurants (as Mom says): if it's open, it's good. But you might want to avoid places who have five languages on their menu.
Day two: Get up at an early time, and head to the Vatican! If you can get there early enough, you beat the crazy tourist lines. (but, of course, there's the Gelateria Old Bridge - a local fave - where you can stop while waiting in line) If you can't, head there around 1:30 PM, when everyone has gone through there. Maybe take a morning in at the Villa Borghese? Make it a totally cultural day? Consider having dinner at Pancrazio's, located just on the edge of the Campo dei Fiori - if you go down into their basement, you see some cool stuff. If you go through that doorway from their basement, you'll see the foundations of the Theatre of Pompey, where Julius Caesar was murdered (not in the Forum, like Shakespeare claims). And their signature dish is AMAZING.
Day three: Here's a fun morning walk: start at the river - the Ara Pacis and the Mausoleum of Augustus. Walk up to the Piazza del Popolo (go into that church on the far north side - famous Caravaggios), stroll down to the Spanish Steps, then walk down to the Piazza Barberini, and go into the Cappucin Crypt (just north of the large shell statue on the north corner of the piazza). See my favorite fountain (the Triton), then stroll (watch your pockets) to the Trevi Fountain, head across to the Pantheon (take a stop at Tazzo d'Oro for a Caffe Granita), then head to Piazza Navona for lunch! There are so many gems between each of these major points - fountains, picture ops, churches - it could take you a day to do this stroll. Cafe Pancotto is just east of the Piazza navona - they have mom's favorite salad!
Also, just west of the Piazza Navona, on the Via Vittorio Emanuele, is my favorite pizza place - Montecarlo's. A local favorite. Consider going there for dinner.
Day four: Tired of walking? Head up to the Piazza Garibaldi on the Gianicolo for a beautiful view of the city! Take a train to Naples, then get to the harbor and take a boat to Capri (be back in time for bed)! Take the 110 (starts and ends at Termini) around town to see if there's another spot you've missed which you HAD to see! :) Or, do what I prefer, and find a nice, hidden table somewhere in Trastevere or in the Piazza Navona, and watch people all day long. Be sure that you've had tartuffo at Tre Scalini (in Piazza navona) during your evening stroll before you leave Rome behind.
Oh, no - I've got to head to professional development training! Next on the list: Florence!
Whenever I hear of someone going to Rome, I get that warming feeling in my chest, and recall how I feel for the city. Rome is amazing - so many places to see, so many levels to understand! Unless you live there for an extended period of time, you're not going to see everything, so instead of draining yourself of every ounce of energy, enjoy Rome for what she has to offer - her beauty, her culture, her food!
When you arrive into Rome by airport, DON'T TAKE THE TAXI to the airport - be a self-respecting tourist and save your money for food and wine! After you exit Customs (be sure you get Euros from the Bancomat while waiting for your bags), look for signs hanging from the ceiling "AI TRENI" - to the Trains. You'll have to take some escalators down, then back up, to get there, but you'll arrive at a small train station (get a snack/drink in the Bar). At the Tobacchi (big T sign - you can always get subway/bus tickets from these spots), request two tickets for the Termini Express. Find where the next Fiumicino/Termini Express train will arrive, and be sure you stamp/validate your ticket before boarding!
When you disembark from the train, you'll walk a LONG way (it seems) before you arrive into the terminal of Termini. You can buy your Romapass in the offices there, or at least get bus/metro tickets there (full-day, multi-day passes are available). Go through the front of Termini (large glass facade), and you'll see the Taxi stop on your right! Take a far cheaper taxi to your hotel.
First day in: drop off your bags, shower if you must, but eat when it's TIME to eat (not when you're hungry), and stay on your feet.
The Rocks: If you want to get over jetlag, here's a great way to stay on your feet your first day. Of course, you have to endure the old stuff - the Forum is a necessity. The Palatine is cool (and you get a great view of the Circus Maximus). Enjoy stepping along paths where people - CIVILIZED PEOPLE - have trod for almost three centuries. People were giving timeless speeches right there on the Rostra ("Friends, Romans, Countrymen . . ."), and saints were imprisoned there (Carcer Mamertinus). But enjoy being in the dust only until you're tired of it. If you MUST go into the Colosseum, do so, but please be sure you've bought your RomaPass elsewhere, so that you can pass through on the right side line! Just past the Colosseum is the church of St. Clemente, which has four levels of Rome under it (WAY COOL). The courtyard of this church has been the same one since the 11th century! Just north of the Forum/Imperial Fora - off of Via Cavour - is the church of St. Pietro in Vincoli, where you not only see the chains which held him, but you see the infamous "Moses". Take the Subway line from Colosseo down to visit the Basilica of St. Paul Fuori i Muri (I think the stop itself is St. Paolo), where you'll find Paul's remains - the best of the four major Basilicas, I think.
Take the metro back to your hotel. Shower up and head to a nice filling dinner. Can I recommend Trattoria del Pallaro, located just next to the church of St. Andrew, right between the Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Navona? It's about 30E per person for a five-course fixed price menu - FABULOUS food, and wine and dessert are included. Or, if you choose to stay near your hotel, let me share my philosophy on Roman restaurants (as Mom says): if it's open, it's good. But you might want to avoid places who have five languages on their menu.
Day two: Get up at an early time, and head to the Vatican! If you can get there early enough, you beat the crazy tourist lines. (but, of course, there's the Gelateria Old Bridge - a local fave - where you can stop while waiting in line) If you can't, head there around 1:30 PM, when everyone has gone through there. Maybe take a morning in at the Villa Borghese? Make it a totally cultural day? Consider having dinner at Pancrazio's, located just on the edge of the Campo dei Fiori - if you go down into their basement, you see some cool stuff. If you go through that doorway from their basement, you'll see the foundations of the Theatre of Pompey, where Julius Caesar was murdered (not in the Forum, like Shakespeare claims). And their signature dish is AMAZING.
Day three: Here's a fun morning walk: start at the river - the Ara Pacis and the Mausoleum of Augustus. Walk up to the Piazza del Popolo (go into that church on the far north side - famous Caravaggios), stroll down to the Spanish Steps, then walk down to the Piazza Barberini, and go into the Cappucin Crypt (just north of the large shell statue on the north corner of the piazza). See my favorite fountain (the Triton), then stroll (watch your pockets) to the Trevi Fountain, head across to the Pantheon (take a stop at Tazzo d'Oro for a Caffe Granita), then head to Piazza Navona for lunch! There are so many gems between each of these major points - fountains, picture ops, churches - it could take you a day to do this stroll. Cafe Pancotto is just east of the Piazza navona - they have mom's favorite salad!
Also, just west of the Piazza Navona, on the Via Vittorio Emanuele, is my favorite pizza place - Montecarlo's. A local favorite. Consider going there for dinner.
Day four: Tired of walking? Head up to the Piazza Garibaldi on the Gianicolo for a beautiful view of the city! Take a train to Naples, then get to the harbor and take a boat to Capri (be back in time for bed)! Take the 110 (starts and ends at Termini) around town to see if there's another spot you've missed which you HAD to see! :) Or, do what I prefer, and find a nice, hidden table somewhere in Trastevere or in the Piazza Navona, and watch people all day long. Be sure that you've had tartuffo at Tre Scalini (in Piazza navona) during your evening stroll before you leave Rome behind.
Oh, no - I've got to head to professional development training! Next on the list: Florence!
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