Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Tempus fugit

Wow - I can't believe it - Orrocks are already in Italy (and I hope you're enjoying every SECOND of it - if anything comes up, just e-mail me, and I can get you advice as quickly as possible), and you're headed out next week, Price!!!

I've almost officially hit my limit as to advice and suggestions, simply because my standard touring area is Tuscany and south!!! I've got a little about Venice in this passage, but when it comes to those beautiful spots north of there, I've yet to visit myself (ah, when I have a year to travel with Jay as ADULTS) . . .

REALLY enjoy your time in Emilia Romano - for the time you'll spend there, you probably be able to allow a day of peace (rest, do laundry, catch up on upcoming plans). Get to know the area, and find out from your concierge (or your town's tourist stop) about concerts which are happening during your stay. May is a ripe time for Spring Festivals, too, and many small towns are honoring their patron saint during this time! And, for this region, the most important goal for you is to eat, and eat well. Hit those indoor food markets, and drink the wine (yes, Dad will tell you that lambrusco's not my favorite, but when you're in the place where it's made . . .). Stuff yourself. And, by all means, eat Parmesan every day. Sprinkled with pepper and drizzled with honey, it makes a perfect dessert.

Don't worry - you'll walk it all off while in Venice. Be sure to plan a day to take the vaporetti out to Murano (and buy lots of glass pieces), and possibly spend another 1/2 day checking out the lace in Burano. Expect to spend a few hours touring St. Marco's. And, for the rest of the time, enjoy the personality of the city - the back, winding corridors; the hidden churches; the small facades of random buildings. As I mentioned in my Transportation blog, be sure to use the 24-hour Vaporetti tickets and save money for wine and dinner!

Lake Como? I can't even write anything here - too jealous. Just enjoy the very beauty of it all.

And, finally, Milan. Of course, you will see the Last Supper. You'll visit the Duomo. You'll check out the fashion. Please be sure to take the time to savor your last few days in Italy, though. You've had an INCREDIBLE trip!!!

L :)

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Public Transportation in Italy

It seems everyone has picked up on this in Europe, and, the Italians, for all their brilliance in their public transportation systems, have totally embraced the idea of the INTEGRALE in tourism.

In Rome, the Romapass (15E) offers you a three-day bus/metro pass with a card which gives you two free entrances into most of their major museums (totally rocks to avoid the long Colosseum lines), then discounted prices on any entrances past then. I LOVE the bus system in Rome (Metro will be great for you April/May travelers, but I'll only use it upon absolute necessity in July) - so many routes, all the way to midnight, then there's always a route you'll find midnight to 6 AM for you late-night goers (like me). Remember, as long as you know where you're going, the bus signs all read from top to bottom. If you want to plan out bus routes during your stay, check out Rome's ATAC website online. You can buy a cheap bus map at any of the Tobacchi, too, when you arrive.
If you choose to just get the daily bus passes at the Tobacchi (don't do it!!!), remember that a Giornaliero bus pass ends at midnight, and you have to validate a new ticket to get home after an evening out.
***Want to get a good tour of the whole city, then decide where you want to spend your time? The 110, starting and ending at Termini, is a city-wide route where you can get on and off along the route, then just board the next bus when you're ready to move on. A great way to tour heavily in one day, then enjoy the rest of your days.

In Florence, they have the Amici degli Uffizi card, but with your short stay there (smart idea), you can more easily simply get reservations at each museum, and schedule your day appropriately that way. And, really, for as central as Florence is, you probably don't have to use the bus system - the train and bus stations (SMN) are so central!
***Florence, too, has a city tour bus which will take you around town - a nice way to rest your feet for an hour or two!

In Venice, they have this thing called the "Venice Connected" (check out http://www.veniceconnected.com/ - it's a great idea, but you have to book in advance), but unless you're a crazy pre-planner, you might want to consider just getting a vaporetto ticket. These run from 12-hours all the way to 7-days (I love how the 24-hour tickets REALLY are that - once you've validated it, you have a full 24 hours - no expiring at midnight like the Cinderella-style day-long Roma tickets). And, really, the vaporetto is a great system - frequently comes, and they don't mind if you bring your bags on . . . briefly. Gondolas are cute, but the difference in price is SO worth the better wine at dinner.

For the other areas, there are regional systems, whether by bus (Sena, for instance, out of Siena) or by train (the Circumvesuviana around the Bay of Naples) - just check out what's available in the area through websites and tour books!

And, of course, there's nothing wrong with falling in love with one spot, and sitting still for a good three days in a pleasant piazza somewhere . . .

L :)

Monday, April 13, 2009

Chianti

There's a reason I choose to take students back to Siena every year . . . even though my heart belongs to Rome. The cities in the Chianti region of Tuscany are THE most charming, beautiful ones anywhere in Italy. I'll talk about a few here, but you really can't miss out, no matter where you choose to go.

West of Florence (not really Chianti territory) is Lucca, a small, walled city, famed for touring by bike. It's a rare spot where people will cancel their travel plans upon arrival, just to get more time in that city. Lucca and Siena are those kind of towns. Of course, west of Florence is also Pisa. Don't have much to say about that city (when the kids ask if, on their off-day, they can go to Pisa, I reply, "Go ahead."). I'm not a fan of tourist traps.

South of Florence is everything else.
San Gimignano is a must-do, even if only for a few hours. Visit the church where Sta. Fina is buried, and spend some time admiring the frescoes. Climb the Torre Grosso, and be sure to stroll up to the Rocca. And you HAVE to have gelato in the Piazza della Cisterna (it's the one on the west side of the piazza, with all the neon, which claims to have the best Gelato in the world - they really do).
Consider staying in Siena. It's absolutely magical, especially from sunset on. There are great museums, great palaces, and great people there. The food is incredible - one of my favorite spots is in the Piazza del Mercato - the one with the brown umbrellas - try any of the roasted meats or sausages on the menu. Also, the Pizzeria Quatro Venti (I think), located just down the street from the Duomo, right at the intersection of Aquila and Pantera, is a personal recommendation. (With this short mention, I'm doing no justice to this amazing city. Just know what kind of love I have for this town, that I return every year - this will be my sixth year to return to Siena for homestays. And my homestay mom is the best - Dina embodies all that is beautiful about Siena - her hospitality, her generosity, her full-hearted-ness, her amazing cooking skills . . .) Siena even has their own special Chianti, which, I argue, is better than the rest. It's grown in the crete Senesi, the clay fields just outside of Siena, which gives it a great flavor. Look for the black rooster on the label.
Smaller towns, like Montalcino, or Montepulciano, are surrounded by vineyards. All of them have their own beautiful charm and personality. One famed town is Cortona (Under the Tuscan Sun), but anywhere else similar is as wonderful.
If you go super-south in Tuscany, you'll love Orvieto. What a cute town!
Out east, consider going to Arrezzo - the Archaeological museum is actually built into the standing amphitheatre. And their art collections are incredible (not to mention, the churches). Really, a beautiful town, which carries many Tuscan qualities, yet has its own personality, too. Ever seen "La Vita e Bella"? Some earlier scenes were shot there.
In Siena, just to the south of Il Campo, is a tourist office, where you can book afternoon-long wine tours (2 - 7 PM), perfect for the wine experience (and with a pro). I'm sending my hugs out to Marco on this.
Never can say enough about the Tuscan wine country. Just be sure to enjoy your time there, and never allow the tourist rush to ruin your peaceful strolls!

Grazie,
Laura :)

P.S. Most of my monthly newsletters for the kids mentions something about Siena or Tuscany in them. Pillage all you'd like from the SPI 2009 group.

Monday, April 6, 2009

Earthquake!!!

You probably have heard of the terrible earthquake which happened just outside of L'Aquila ("the eagle") this morning. It was a beast - killed many people, and left thousands homeless. One part which hits close to home is the fact that there are several American universities' campuses located in L'Aquila, including a school very near to my heart. Plus, it's not far from where the Pope spends his summers - let's hope that beautiful site doesn't fall!!!

Earthquakes and other earth-moving natural disasters aren't foreign to the Italians. Italy is located right on a shifting plate - it's what causes the Appenines to exist so close to the ocean. It's what causes things like Vesuvius to blow. It's what causes places like the Basilica di San Francesco to be rattled so hard that its timeless frescoes become . . . well . . . time-threatened. It's also what brings such beauty to the region, as well - many of the ancient buildings still standing today had foundations of tufa rock, and we wouldn't have Pompeii if it weren't for the burying.

With this week being holy week, I wanted to talk about some of the great sacred locations in Rome and the vicinity. One NOT-TO-BE-MISSED spot - make it an intentional part of your everyday stroll in Rome - is the Bridge of Angels, just near the Castel Sant'Angelo. You can easily view it online - to be visually reminded of those devices of torture used against Christ is incredibly moving for a Christian in her Lenten spirit. You quickly realize that these physical devices are metaphors for our own behavior, and, while looking each angel in the face, you see your own self. What an amazingly graceful loving Savior we have, who was the innocent sacrifice on behalf our own sins!!!

Consider entering the Castel Sant' Angelo, as well - it is an amazing structure, from the original tumulus of Hadrian, all the way to the ornate ceilings of the Papal apartments. And to view Rome from the Angel Michael's viewpoint . . . wow . . . a great place to feel a little freedom after being tourist-cattle in the Vatican!

Did I say I was continuing on to Chianti? Tomorrow . . .